Lawn Care
Initial Lawn Care GuideTry to keep off your lawn as much as possible for the first 2-4 weeks, this will help alleviate strain on root development
Watering
- In summer it is best to saturate turf at least once a day, better twice
- The best way to tell that turf has had sufficient water is by lifting an edge of the turf sod to see that the soil base beneath the turf is saturated
- If turf does dry out it can shrink and gaps may occur
- Water requirements will reduce as your lawn becomes more established
- Always remember to take soil types, seasons and weather conditions into consideration
Mowing
- Best to leave for 8-10 days after laying before first mow
- Have a sharp blade on your mower and mow lawn when dry as this will give a better cut and minimise disease problems
- Mowing little and often is best
- It is recommentded to cut approximately 1/3 of the grass leaf per mow
- Ensure not to scalp or cut the lawn too low
- To lower grass length do so gradually, not in one mow
Fertiliser
- Use a general lawn fertiliser
- Fertilise approximately every 10 weeks
- Fertilise when raining to wash in and prevent burning the grass
- To maintain a quality lawn fertilisers are essential
Weeds
- When weeds first start appearing, hand weeding is one of the most simple and effective forms of weed control
- Selective weed spraying may be required
- Ensure chemical rates and sprayer are correctly calibrated
Annual Lawn Care Guide
Spring Sep. Oct. Nov.
- A good time for selective weed spraying if your lawn has weeds. Soil and seed any bare areas and fertilise.
- Apply Wettasoil to aid the penetration of water in preparation for summer dryness.
- No Insects product to eradicate pests and bugs.
Summer Dec. Jan. Feb. Mowing Your lawn should be kept longer in summer so as to retain moisture in the leaf, therefore will not dry out as quickly. Heat places lawns under stress so mow before rain, or give it water after mowing.
Watering If your lawn is 10 weeks and older only requires water every 3-4 days, but must be saturated so water soaks deep into soil encouraging roots to chase water down. If lawn is watered 5-10 mins every night there is more possibility of disease and the roots remain close to the surface to find water. If disease occurs due to heat and moisture a fungicide spray could be necessary. This is not a suitable time for seeding or weed spraying as too hot and dry.
Autumn Mar. Apr. May. If a lawn renovation is required this is the best time of year. Now is a good time to lower the mowing height if it is long from summer and mow more regularly because lawn growth increases. Good time for selective weed spray. Soil and seed bare patches if required. Fertilise to strengthen grass for cold winter ahead, as growth will slow down.
Winter Jun. Jul. Aug. Grass growth slows down, therefore less mowing required. Fertilise to encourage grass to keep moving. Grass will not respond to selective weed sprays or seeding as it is to cold.
Products to control Moss
- Lime or Gypsum
- Sulphate iron
- Yield
All products available from our retail store listed below.
Your Lawn Needs Fertilisers
WHY?
THE ROLE OF FERTILISERS
Fertilisers play a vital role in modern society. They are required as a means to add nutrients into the soil, plant and animal system and thereby either maintain or raise the health, quality and productivity of our soils. This is an essential role.
Most soils are inherently infertile. Nutrients must be added to build up soil nutrient reserves to make them productive. Nutrients are removed from soils in the products that are produced, i.e. Grass. These must be replaced if the soil is to remain productive. Nutrients are lost from the system by removal to non-productive areas, leaching and other processes. These also must be replaced. The use of fertilisers is therefore unavoidable.
Emphasising these points, field tests show that without fertiliser inputs, soil productivity was three times less, showing the important contribution that fertiliser makes to promote a healthy, quality lawn.
Two simple rules to keep in mind:
- Your grass is your desired species so you want to promote this i.e.: fertiliser, watering when required and good regular mowing.
- Eliminate competition i.e.: weed, disease and pest control.
GUIDE TO LAYING ROLLOUT LAWN
Preparation with top soil in place
- Spray out lawn with Roundup (or turf cut to allow for immediate turf replacement)
- Scarify surface wit rake and remove debris
- If only small hollows to be levelled use garden mix, for larger use top soil
- Spread No3 Turf Sports mix and apply before laying turf 3kg will cover 100 sqm, if any remaining can be used for fertilizations every 10-12 weeks (this can be purchased with your turf order @ $9.50 GST incl.)
- Lay turf by starting at a straight edge and move away from it (this ensures that you don’t get to the middle and have an odd cut and are not walking across new turf). Joins do not have to be staggered and grass after laying does not require compaction. We have found the best tool for cutting turf is a serated edge knife i.e. bread knife.
Preparation when top soil required
- Place top soil approx depth 100mm
- Rake over to spread and level
- Compact soil lightly by using flat surface of rake to expose any hollows
- Follow us above for laying ROL
To maintain your lawn after laying, refer to our initial lawn care guide supplied with your turf order.
Contact us
Ph 09 296 3152 Fax 09 296 3158 or Visit our Turf Shop: 239 Hingaia Road, Papakura
Lynn Middleton 027 4874616 Lesley Middleton 027 2177736
Email: rolloutlawn@xtra.co.nz |